DAY 5
Dunquin to Ballycurrane  (28 kl or 17 miles)

Ballycurrane  is in the Waterford region of the peninsular, famous for the crystal glass ware known all over the world, the cost of which had destroyed more than one credit card.
The town was built in the shadows of the Ballycurrane Castle dating back to the 14th century.
 Today was a good day to test our legs, and put some miles on them at last. We are all feeling stronger now, In fact today was going to be  the lo ngest day of this sectionat about 18 miles, but maybe the most scenic

First sight of the ocean today

We left  Dunquin at about 9.30 and headed into the first uphill, from there we dropped down towards Clogher and the ocean.

 Three miles of foot soothing salt water today, I always feel a calm when Im at the ocean

This was a real change today, as after long treks across farm land and marshes, we finally arrived at Smerwick on the shores of Smerwick Harbor, and here we took off the boots and bare footed it for miles along the shore, I personally walked most of it in the ocean. Being back at the sea made me feel a home and all was good in the world.

At times we had to traverse from one beach to another by hiking along the cliffs in between. At some point along the last cliff, one shoe lace got hooked into a lace clasp on the other boot, and sent me ass over tip along the edge next to this cliff.. I landed on my knee first so guess who's limping a bit. Just glad I didn't take a trip into the ocean 60 ft down. Tore the clasp out of my new boot which  really sucks

From there we made it into Ballydavid for lunch in the harbor. I had grilled Hake with salad, something to be said for clean foods, tastes soooo good.

I got a kick out of sitting there and watching a fellow drive by on an original condition Norton A20 from about 1945, after lunch I thought I saw where he parked so I went looking as I wanted to chat with him about the bike, but to no avail.
Onwards to Ballyroe through boreens , farms, bogs, and country lanes.

Made it into Ballycurrane at 4.30 to find the BandB didn't have our reservation, they found us a place anyway. So it's dinner in the pub , and game of cards, and bed, as tomorrow is a son of a biscuit , with a 2400 ft climb right out of the box.

Day 6 and on to Cloghane. (21 kl or 13 miles)

Cloghane  6/21/17
This is a tiny village at the base of Mount Brandon, with a population of only 297 folk, there isnt much going on, but there are pubs of course. Overlooking the Brandon Bay, the town is quaint and pretty quiet. The name of Cloghane comes from the old regional stone huts that are found here.

To get there we had the biggest climb of the trail, over 2000 ft which was one thing, but as it turns out, it's a straight up climb. with no switchbacks.

Left the accommodation which was marginal at best, worst place we stayed in so far, left by 9.20 am and headed to the trail. We soon found ourselves on the path leading off the road and to the mountain. Looking at the road ahead it didn't seem too bad, but a post on my right side caught my eye and we almost walked past it, it was for the trail and showed straight upwards. Would have hated to miss this turn.
 We took the direction and started to climb. It did exactly that, go straight up for 1 hour and 40 minutes, over sodden grass tufts and sheep droppings, many styles and farmers gates, but only straight up, and after that, more straight up.
 The fog was as thick as pea soup and at times, when separated by more than 30 ft, we had to call to stay in touch.

At last, the top at over 2400 ft and soaking wet

Reaching the top and finally taking a break and a snack to fuel the body, felt good.
 Carolines foot was pretty bad and bleeding, so she decided not to do this hike due to the climb, that was a good choice as the way down was worse. The book warned  of the descent ,and it was right. The fist 500 ft down was as treacherous as it gets, with steps down as big as 3 foot at a time and a gradient of about 65 degrees. We decided to send our big bags with Caroline in a cab to the next night stop, so glad we did because with them on, the climb and the decent would have been hellish dangerous.

We never saw any other hikers today, which makes me wonder if they saw the direction sign going straight up at the bottom, it was easy to miss. If they missed it, who knows where they will end up.

The fog cleared on the back side, and the valley coming down to the ocean was spectacular. Makes you realize why you walk these walks.

stacks of Peat drying out to be used as fire fuel.

Met a farmer and his toothless sheep herder on the way down. Chatted to then for a good 15 minutes
learning about sheep and sheep dogs. they were really interesting to chat with, but were more interested in Las Vegas.

 When we reached the coast, we headed into Brendon town and down to Brendon Harbor for a beer shandy at the pub.

 

Kerri outside the pub, on the harbor wall.

 From there the trail took another 4 miles into this town of Cloghan, it's a tiny place but we are at the best Band B we have stayed in, in fact they are doing a wash for us in a machine, BECAUSE WE STINK.

 Stopped into an old cemetery coming into town and looked around,, they are very peaceful places and looking at some tomb stones, the history is all there. Makes you realize you have to live this life out loud, because this is all there is in the end.

 

We found Caroline at the BandB, and she had taken a few miles in around the town on her feet, to make up for not doing the climb,
Had a shower, clean clothes, now I'm not sure what to do with myself,,,,,,,oh yeah, that's right there's a pub down the street for dinner, and Brian and I need to make up for tooooo many lost games of cribbage.

part of the trail coming into the village

Day 7 with a walk to Castlegregory (29 km or 18 miles)

Castlegregory  6/22/17
 Another longer day to stretch the legs all the way to this town of only 243 people ( yes, there are still pubs). This town is situated on the northern end of the Dingle Peninsular and is named after the castle built in the 16th century by Gregory Hoare.  This is the only place on the peninsular that still resembles a real classic village. This population of only 243 people is but one quarter of the people who lived here prior to the Great Irish Potato Famine of 1852

The day started with a scenic walk out of Cloghane and through the wetlands and towards the beach head.

We stayed at the best BandB of this trip so far and then spent last evening at the pub for curry dinner , and then getting another beating at cribbage by the girls. Just a great little village with a warm inviting vibe.

Dinner, a beer and a beating at cribbage,,,,again

We dropped down onto the beach and turned right for the next 8 miles, it was sand and more sand.
About half way along we came to a bit  of a river which was deep enough to get your feet wet if you didn't have boots. So, I carried Kerri across, then went back for Brian.
 Just to be clear, I didn't say ," Kerri was ALOT  heavier than Brian",  I said it felt like it,,,,,,,ooooh that's going to hurt when she reads this.

At the end of the beach, we turned right across a headland towards another few miles of beach, on the way over we ran into some horses that were free grazing, Kerri felt right at home.

The next beach was really rockier, but got us into Castlegregory in time for an afternoon tea.
 Thanks goodness they had an ATM, seeing as my credit card was now no use.  Dinner at Pisces

restaurant was the best, it's came recommended for its fish, but they mentioned mussels as we walked in, so Caroline and I made a pig of ourselves as you can see, then the fish meal, followed by a huge desert, I am going to struggle to slow my eating down when I get home, no way I could keep this consumption up.

A crappy nights sleep in a bed that was 6 inches too short, a bumping door all night from the wind, and a lump in the middle of the mattress that may have been the body of the person who was there the night before.
Breakfast on the other hand was excellent, I even had to ask what went into the omlette as it was so good.
Tomorrow we start the last leg of this first segment of the 250 miles.

Tralee  (27 km or 17 miles).
 This is the town where we started this walk after leaving Cork on the 16th june.
Tralee is the largest town on this walk by far, and we will stay here this night before moving on to Killarney, where we start the next leg of this journey, The Ring of Kerry

last nights accomodation.

Above is our last nights accommodation, the weather looks pretty threatening but walking is our only option. Today is short and we plan to stop in Camp where we had our first good meal at the beginning of the walk, this brings us full circle on this leg.

crossing a very narrow walking bridge

The way was very pretty, but wet today, once again we found ourselves back on a beach and passing the village of Aughacasla where we cut across to Carrigagharoe Point

Some of the terrain was like the early part of the walk, with an interesting bridge crossing, obviously designed by someone who was short of material
This was a peculiar piece of art along the coast line, but it spoke volumes about the mindset of a walker," are we there yet?"

 This church and graveyard was a great respite from the wind and wet day, it was just a mile or so before Promintory Fort.  Sitting there I was shocked to hear Kerri mumble, " I can't wait to get to Ashes Pub to have a beer" Kerri had never had a beer before this trip, I guess that's the bad influence Caroline can have on you

 Warming up and swapping notes

I saw this sign above, in a pub, and I think Caroline took it as her own personal mantra. We finally made it to Ashes in Camp and celebrated with a Hot Whiskey a piece, just to warm up abit

The end of the Dingle, the four of us, wet and weary, but happy and feeling good. The sad part was that this was Brian's last day walking, so we will miss him come the start of the Ring of Kerry walk.

Once we made it into Tralee, we found our hostel and had a shower,  found a restaurant for a celebratory dinner. I had lamb shank that was perfect, how can one not eat lamb when in Ireland. What we learned walking, was that there are all these sheep, but its not cost effective to shear them for the wool for the famous Irish sweaters, they import the wool, and their sheep are just for consumption.

Got to bed not too late as Brian was off early, so hopped into the sack and went to sleep,,,,,nooo, not really, this place was so noisy that sleep was a challenge, then at 5 am, two dogs get into a fight outside the window, in the street, before you know it, Brian who is an  expert dog handler, and trainer, is outside in the street, in his underware, separating the dogs and the owners, saving both dogs lives as it turns out. Some fluffy mutt and it's old lady owner and a stray bulldog type thingy. I'm not sure who the old lady was more scared of, the bulldog, or Brian in his underware. 

Brian is now on his way to London,I'm trying to get back to sleep, and the girls are shopping for shoes,,,I think.

It's been a great walk with a great group of friends, we will miss one, but in 24 hours we pick up the bags and head out on the Kerry Of Ring,  can't wait.

The four of us at Shane Og's pub, with Noel and his wife celebrating his birthday and 16 years of marriage.
Note --To continue following the second leg of this hike, go to the blog address  zulusireland2.blogspot.com  The Ring of Kerry - three amigos